The State We’re In 2026 – Day 9

Today a big day in South Australia with big things, big lakes, big river, big cliffs and big wetlands.

Coots on Lake Cullulleraine – an artificially expanded lake that was once an ephemeral wetland that filled when the Murray River flooded.

Darter (male – they are much darker than the female and with the chestnut colour on the neck)

The last stronghold of the Incandescent Lightbulb!

River red gums and other native trees at the lake edge priovide habitat for birdlife.

Swamphens

Red-rumped parrot

Noisy miner

“Oh isn’t it cute” was my travelling companions reaction to this lone corella in the tree.

Our enthusiasm sooned waned when the cacophany of the multitude descended into the trees above us.

Into South Australia – our fourth border crossing in 9 days.

The nearby Quarantine Station makes the next part of our day fruitless. So in a swarm of fruit flies (from the bags of fruit left beside by other travellers and not in the specially constructed bins – obviously some travellers chose not to read the sign), after eating what we could, we placed our fruit into the bins. There is a pit under the concrete – the yellow metal is just a chute.

Down the road is the Quarantine Inspection Station with the most rigorous inspection we have experienced (including glove box, centre bin between the front seats and opening nearly every zippered bag.) We have probably reached their target group age. Caravan and recreational vehicles really get the special treatment.

The Big Dunlop Tyre at Yamba was originally built to coincide with the arrival of the Formula One Grand Prix in Adelaide in 1985. It now promotes the Phylloxera free Riverland area in South Australia. Phylloxera (a grape vine insect pest from North America) is the biggest biosecurity threat to the region.

Tyre prices keep going up – that’s inflation for you!

When I was young, having fun was simple, we just rolled tyres down hills. Yes, those were the Goodyears.

Paringa Silo art – A riverboat captain on one side; the other side has a Murray Cod, painted by a talented graduate of the art acodemy.

A short drive north from Paringa leads to the Headings Cliff Lookout over the Murray River. Downstream from here, the river once flowed along what is now Burra Creek to Spencers Gulf near Port Pirie. 50 millions years ago, the Mount Lofty Ranges were lifted up damming the Murray and forcing it to cut a new path south. The cliffs are where the Murray cuts through the uplifted section of the Earth’s surface.

Whistling kites patrolled high above the river.

Daisy bush

The nearby citrus trees were getting a trim: top, back and sides.

Back into Paringa and crossing the Murray River.

Renmark Visitor Information Centre has a paddle-steamer and barge on display – the PS Industry. The PS Industry was built in 1911, it once worked for SA Water keeping the Murray River open to traffic by removing snags in the river and later in the construction of locks and weirs.

The boiler and steam engine.

The PS Industry wheelhouse

Unpeelievable! The Big Orange at Berri is 15 metres high with a diameter of 12 metres, the Biggest of the ‘Big Fruit’ in Australia. The artist dreamed of painting an even bigger orange, but it was just a pigment of their imagination. It is currently in a state of disrepair. I read that the inside was still intact but that may have just been pulp fiction.

Berri Tower (Water Tower Lookout) – despite the elevation, the views were ordinary; it was not berri exciting.

Extensive vineyards and orchards

At Loxton in a riverside park, I finally managed a good view of the Yellow rosellas.

The Big Pelican at Loxton – the beak of creativity in this part of the world.

Loxton Tree of Knowledge, a treemendous local authority with historical flood heights.

Habels Bend and Heaven Clifftop Viewpoints of the Murray River

The shortest way to Adelaide is along the Sturt Highway but we take the road less travelled – The Karoonda Highway.

The pawfully good Karoonda Silo Art, a tribute to farming in the local area.

The dog is sick of hearing baaaad jokes from the sheep – he’s herd them all.

Wedge-tailed eagle on the southern end of the silos.

Big Merino Ram at Karoonda. What, just a ram? What’s wrong with ewe?

No Wind, no Water, no Life

The Institute at Alawoona – Institutes were a feature of South Australian country towns. They are historic brick or stone community hubs modeled after British Mechanics’ Institutes. Built from the mid-19th to early 20th centuries, they provided regional workers with libraries, reading rooms, lecture halls, and spaces for social and moral self-improvement.