Encounter Maria Island ferry for the crossing to Maria Island. Maria is not pronounced mah-ree-uh but Mar-rye-uh. It rhymes with pariah and as a former convict settlement was home to outcasts who were despised or rejected. The island was named in 1642 by Dutch explorer Abel Tasman after Maria van Diemen, wife of the Governor-General of the Dutch East Indies in Batavia.

Despite being at the ferry 45 minutes before the required time, we were back a fair way in the queue and ended up seated on the foredeck. Our SPF50+ Shimano fishing shades keep us protected from the harsh sun. Although it is cool, the UV levels are very high.

After a 45 minute journey across Mercury Passage, we sight Darlington, the historic convict settlement with buildings dating back to 1824.

The picturesque bay near Darlington.

Convict era barn

Ruins are scattered around the western side of the island.

Cape Barren goose

Graveyard

Wombat burrow

Australasian pipit

The Fossil Cliffs walk

Looking across the northern end of the Mercury Passage

Pathway to the Fossil Cliffs

The local rocks are filled with fossils, the top step containing this fossil bivalve. We love this fossil.

Fossil cliffs contain a vast number of fossils – clams, sea fans, corals, scallop shells and sea lilies deposited in the sea 290 million years ago.

Fossil cliffs rock shelf

Female Flame robin

Male Flame robin

The impressive cliffs continue eastward

Kelp swaying in the swell

Huge blocks have fallen from the cliff and are chock full of fossils.

Gulls patrolling the cliff line

Fossil shells

Fenestella moss animal fossil

Panorama of Fossil Cliffs

A long steep walk away from the Fossil Cliffs site.

The grassy headlands had a few Casuarina

Casuarina

The northern coast

The rock formation on the headland known as Bishop and Clerk.

Bishop and Clerk with cloud condensing as it rises quickly from the ocean.

Eucalyptus

Maria Island is known as a wombat hotspot but on the warm day, they were scarce and confined to the edge of the forest in shade.

The track followed a valley through taller Eucalyptus woodland.

A set of 12 cottages in ruins known as the Twelve Apostles.

Cape Barren geese grazing around some ruins.

Tasmanian native hen (turbo chook)

The track enters Darlington from the forested eastern side

The Convict Penitentiary, completed in 1828 is now used to accommodate visitors rather than detain them. The Convict Station operated between 1825 and 1832 to punish secondary offenders and runaways. In 1842 it reopened as Darlington Probation Station where ‘progressive’ ideas on the management and treatment of convicts were implemented. Until 1850, newly arrived prisoners were classified according to their crimes and conduct, and worked in the clothing, shoe making and carpentry workshops. 

Some of the many fine old buildings at Darlington.

We headed out on the Painted Cliffs track which is a good location for wombat sightings. We were soon rewarded.

The view across the bay near Darlington

As the afternoon cooled, more wombats emerged from burrows for an afternoon feed. Wombat count today 14.

Yummy

Time to head back to the ferry. We wanted to leave plenty of time as the last ferry departs at 4:15pm.

On the way back to Darlington, we were overjoyed to see these locals!

A rocky start to life.

Close encounter of the furred kind.

White-backed magpies were active and nesting in the huge pine trees

The exotic pines lining the road into Darlington from the jetty.

Cape Barren geese having a drink

Black cormorant drying out after looking for afternoon tea.

Chestnut teal female (front) and male

Commissariat Store near the jetty

Old storage facility near jetty – the fossil cliffs were mined for cement production; cement was stored here and in adjoining silos.

Cascading pigface on the western shore

Our ferry arrives on time.

We farewell Maria Island – a fabulous day – highly recommended.

Crossing Mercury Passage – Maria Island now enveloped in cloud.

Back at Triabunna

We were hungry after our active day and light lunch so opted for fish and chips near the jetty. We were suddenly surrounded by voracious seagulls in a scene like a Hitchcockian nightmare. Mine, mine, mine!