Way Away in WA 2023 – Day 21 – The Road to Karratha (pm)

Desert walnuts (Turtujati) Owenia reticulata stands out with its very dark green leaves. We had seen them over the past two days but they were abundant south of Port Hedland. Other species of Owenia are found in rainforest and dryer scrubs on the east coast.

Some of the branches have very twisted limbs give the tree an creepy haunted look.

Rest area named by person with kidney stones.

Peawah Rest Area – set off the highway beside the dry sandy Peawah River. The grey nomads had moved here from their previous free camp. At another rest area, one told me his shortest campsite move was 6.4km! Fuel prices up to $2.54/litre can limit travel for the nomadic crowd.

Hakea lorea

The flowers are very similar to grevilleas but can be distinguished by the harder woody seed pods.

Mount Constantine

Whistling kites are the most common raptor we have encountered in the Pilbara.

Roebourne was the North West’s first gazetted town. There are a number of heritage-listed buildings. Post Office 1887.

Roebourne Old Prison Museum – now closed to the public.

Mount Welcome Lookout over Roebourne

This is Ngarluma Country – the plains and ranges north from here to the south of Karratha.

We drove off the highway to Cossack, an old port and ghost town. On the way, the road was lined with Mulla mullas (Ptilotus exultatus) and..

…Sturt Desert Peas.

Cossack is a historic ghost town (European settlers from 1863) with remnants of this early settlement including some of the oldest buildings in Western Australia positioned on an Inlet. The town was once the North West’s main shipping port. This is the Customs House & Bond Store (1895). Very relaxing spot – we got a licence to chill. The Post & Telegraph Office is on the left.

Courthouse (1885)

Galbraith & Co store (c.1891) – a branch of a chain of stores started in Scotland.

The road from Cossack to Reader Head Lookout

Reader Head Lookout

Lighthouse and abandoned lighthouse keepers’ cottage. He finally saw the light and left.

Coastal plains and Harding River mouth from Reader Head

Australian kestrel

Orange pea common the headland

Grevillea pyramidalis

This is the vicinity where Red Dog died from a 1080 bait. Red Dog is a true story (that was made into a movie in 2011) of a red kelpie that has become legendary in the Pilbara.

Red Dog Memorial gravesite – a variety of collars, art work, balls and messages are at the base of the rock.

Karratha is a modern small city with traffic lights (hadn’t seen any since leaving Perth) and 4 lane freeways.

Sunset over Karratha

Spinifex against the sunset


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