Windscreen repair was first on the agenda and a drive out on the Endeavour Valley Road to the local windscreen man. After a quick fix, we visited the boat ramp (local croc hangout) – none there, well none that we could see.

The James Cook Museum is a mix of 1770 history, local Indigenous culture and history, local Chinese history, Palmer River gold rush and history of the convent in which the exhibits are housed.

The cannon from the Endeavour that was jettisoned to help keep the ship afloat after running aground on the reef. It was salvaged in 1969.

The original anchor is also on display. This was discovered by divers in 1971.

Cooktown was the first (and only) place in Australia where Cook recorded the sighting of the “Kanguru” – this was the name given by the local Waymburr clan. Cook’s journal above recounts his sighting of the “kanguru”.

Ship’s artist Parkinson’s unfinished art image of the kangaroo from his sketchbook from 1770.

A room is dedicated to bama (North Queensland Indigenous people). Stories of their suffering and loss are heart-wrenching. Despite this recent history, their culture is proudly shared in the district.

Finch Bay, on the outskirts of Cooktown.

The inlet at Finch Bay is home to a large crocodile – local warning.

Quarantine Bay south of Cooktown.

Looking north from Quarantine Bay towards Cape Bedford.

Back on the Mulligan Highway across the Great Diving Range again.

Grevillea were common on the western side of the Great Dividing Range between Byerstown Range and Palmer River. We stop at the Palmer River Roadhouse and look down at the river that flows downsteam to the gulf past the goldfields near Maytown – now a ghost town where some of my ancestors tried to strike it rich.

The road is tremendous – yet at one point reverts to a one lane bridge with a give way for southbound travellers. Note the surface of the bridge.

Graffitti at Bob’s Lookout on our journey south.

The long straights through savannah woodland approaching Mount Carbine village. The mountains are the Mount Lewis rainforests.

Home made pies at Mount Carbine – just as good on the return trip. They have very thin shortcrust pastry and quality meat content filling.

The change from the savannah woodland to tropical rainforest was sudden – yellows and browns making way for vibrant greens. This is the lookout on the road north to Mossman.

Another mountain road to descend to our overnight stay at Port Douglas. Paddle shift gear changes works a treat on roads like this.